Fused Suit vs. Half Canvas vs. Full Canvas
- Full Canvas Suits: The Canvas Interlining is typically made from horsehair (often blended with cotton) or synthetic material and, as the “Interlining” part suggests, a layer of this material is sandwiched between the cloth you see on the outside, and the lining you see on the inside. The purpose of the Canvas Interlining is to help give the suit jacket support for its shape. Canvas helps the jacket sit, hang and fit better on your body - what’s known as the “drape” - and allows the suit to ultimately achieve what it’s designed for: to accentuate the shape of the masculine physique.
- Half Canvas Suits: Eventually, a compromise was developed: a half canvas suit. A half canvased suit uses a sewn in canvas piece in the chest and the lapel of the jacket, and is fused on the bottom part of the jacket. This allows you to have the canvas at the most important part of the suit, and keeps the price down by having less handwork.
- Fused Suit: This is an interlining that is heat pressed (glued) to the wool of the suit. While it allowed for suits to be produced at a better price point, it also has a stiffness to the chest and if over dry-cleaned, can lead to bubbling in the chest area (this is caused when the wool separates from the fusing). It is also less durable over time and loses flexibility. Fusing is good if you want a price point suit and don’t plan on wearing it every day.